Vilhelm Parfumerie: where to start? 8 perfumes to discover the house

Vilhelm Parfumerie is the house whose names tell a story: Dear Polly, Darling Nikki, Poets of Berlin… All its perfumes are unisex eaux de parfum, and the range goes from sparkling citrus to smoky leather. Enough to keep you hesitating in front of the shelf for a long time.

Good news: you don't need to smell everything. Here are eight perfumes to understand the house, from the lightest to the darkest. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

The sparkling one: Sparkling Jo

Sparkling Jo opens on champagne, bergamot and juniper. The heart pairs Williams pear, ginger and ambrette, then the base brings musk, oak wood and ambergris. Bubbles, fruit and a clean base: it's the Vilhelm for celebrations, and for Mondays that need one. See Sparkling Jo.

Tea time: Dear Polly

Dear Polly opens on bergamot and apple. The heart is Ceylon black tea, then the base brings oakmoss, musk and black amber. Crisp apple and tea make it fresh and warm at the same time, perfect for autumn. See Dear Polly.

The woody fruity: Poets of Berlin

Poets of Berlin opens on blueberry and lemon. The heart is wild orris, then the base pairs vanilla, sandalwood and vetiver. Blueberry adds a juicy, dark touch, orris and vetiver keep it elegant. A fruity scent for anyone who doesn't want something too sweet. See Poets of Berlin.

The gourmand floral: Moon Carnival

Moon Carnival opens on passion fruit, bergamot and pink freesia. The heart brings together tuberose, gardenia and orchid, then the base mixes marshmallow, tonka bean and vanilla. White flowers and marshmallow: it's the most gourmand and sunniest one here. See Moon Carnival.

Honey and tobacco: Chicago High

Chicago High opens on champagne, pineapple and bergamot. The heart pairs honey and tobacco, then the base brings leather, patchouli and amber. It starts as a cocktail and ends in a leather armchair. A warm scent for evenings. See Chicago High.

Fruity leather: Darling Nikki

Darling Nikki opens on Sicilian tangerine, cassis and black pepper. The heart mixes carrot seeds, saffron and black lotus, then the base brings leather, wood smoke and tonka bean. Cassis and tangerine soften a smoky leather. Bold, but easy to love. See Darling Nikki.

Smoky rose: Smoke Show

Smoke Show opens on pink pepper and saffron. The heart pairs rose oil and leather, then the base brings vetiver, cedarwood and agarwood. A dark, spicy, woody rose for anyone who likes a perfume that gets noticed. See Smoke Show.

Soft oud: The Oud Affair

The Oud Affair opens on wild honey and ginger butter. The heart is tobacco leaves, then the base pairs agarwood with black vanilla bean. Honey and vanilla round off the oud. A good way in if oud intimidates you a little. See The Oud Affair.

Which one should you pick?

• You want something fresh and cheerful: Sparkling Jo.
• You love tea scents: Dear Polly.
• You're after an elegant fruity: Poets of Berlin.
• You adore gourmand white flowers: Moon Carnival.
• You want warmth for the evening: Chicago High or The Oud Affair.
• You like leather and smoky scents: Darling Nikki or Smoke Show.

One tip: try two perfumes at most at a time, one on each wrist, or everything blurs together. And compare prices on Fragist before you buy.