Van Cleef & Arpels: where to start in the Collection Extraordinaire

Van Cleef & Arpels is first of all a French jewellery house. But its Collection Extraordinaire has found a place with niche perfume lovers, and for a good reason: short, readable compositions built around two or three notes. No endless lists, just one clear idea per bottle.

The catch is that there are a lot of them, and on paper they look a bit alike. Here are eight perfumes to help you find your way, from the softest to the deepest.

Soft and comforting

Orchidée Vanille

The classic of the collection, and the most obvious place to start. Only one note is listed: vanilla. Creamy, warm, sensual. The house presents it as long-lasting. If you like vanilla, you already know what you are getting. See Orchidée Vanille.

Bois d'Amande

Three notes: lemon, almond and tonka bean. The lemon brightens the start, then the almond takes over, warm and slightly gourmand, wrapped in tonka. Simple, round and easy to wear without thinking. See Bois d'Amande.

Santal Blanc

Sandalwood, fig and musk. The sandalwood is creamy, the fig adds a green, milky touch, and the musk wraps it all up. It smells like clean skin warmed by the sun. A quiet perfume to wear all year. See Santal Blanc.

The fresh one

Thé Amara

Bergamot, peppermint, cashmeran and white musk. The opening is bright and a little sharp, then cashmeran brings an almost cottony, woody softness. The lightest in this selection, ideal for the office or sunny days. See Thé Amara.

Warm and enveloping

Oud Blanc

If oud scares you, start here. The listed notes are incense, white musk and vanilla. This is far from heavy woods: it is clear, silky and warm at the same time. A very gentle way into more oriental perfumes. See Oud Blanc.

Ambre Impérial

Amber in full dress: amber, cinnamon and spices, benzoin and vanilla. It is deep, spicy, a little sweet, and it wraps around you like a blanket by the fire. The house describes it as very long-lasting. Perfect when the weather turns cold. See Ambre Impérial.

The deep ones

Moonlight Patchouli

Two notes: patchouli and iris. Patchouli sets the tone, earthy and woody, and iris polishes it with its powdery softness. A refined patchouli, less raw than usual. A good pick if you want character without overdoing it. See Moonlight Patchouli.

Encens Précieux

Pepper, myrrh, leather, tobacco, amber and vanilla. Pepper opens with a little bite, myrrh brings resinous depth, leather and tobacco a darker touch. Amber and vanilla warm it all up. Serious, but never cold. The most intense on the list. See Encens Précieux.

How to choose your first

• You want a safe perfume that is easy to like: Orchidée Vanille or Bois d'Amande.
• You want something quiet for every day: Santal Blanc or Thé Amara.
• You want warmth for winter: Ambre Impérial or Oud Blanc.
• You already know niche perfume and want character: Moonlight Patchouli or Encens Précieux.

A small tip: because these perfumes rest on so few notes, they layer well with each other. Bois d'Amande with Orchidée Vanille, for example, stays in the same soft, gourmand family.

Prices for the Collection Extraordinaire vary from one shop to another. On every page, Fragist compares offers from online shops as soon as they stock the perfume.