Parfums de Nicolaï: where to start? 7 perfumes to discover the house

Nicolaï is the house you usually discover through a friend who insists. "Smell this." And then you don't leave empty-handed. The catch is that the range is wide: colognes, eaux de toilette, eaux de parfum, extraits, and several perfumes that come in two strengths. Easy to get a little lost.

So we sorted it out. Seven perfumes, seven moods, from the freshest to the warmest. The notes we mention are the ones on our product pages, nothing more.

The classic: New York

Released in 1989, New York is an eau de toilette that doesn't behave like a polite eau de toilette. It opens on lemon petitgrain, bergamot, lemon, thyme and mugwort. The heart turns spicy with black pepper, clove, cinnamon, lavender and chamomile. The base brings oakmoss, tonka bean, styrax, incense and musk. Fresh at the start, warm at the finish: the best intro lesson to the house. And if you want it denser, there's also New York Intense. See New York.

Afternoon tea: Fig-Tea

Fig-Tea is a light, airy eau de toilette. Osmanthus and orange open softly, the heart blends jasmine, davana and coriander, and the base stays dry and woody with mate, guaiac wood and a touch of amber. This is the Nicolaï for the office, for weekends, or for days when you don't want to be noticed from across the room. An Intense eau de parfum version exists too. See Fig-Tea.

The rounded patchouli: Patchouli

Released in 2009, Patchouli starts on lavender and orange, moves through rose, geranium and cinnamon, then settles on a generous base: patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla, cistus, incense, amber and musk. If patchouli makes you think of a 70s incense shop, this one may change your mind. It's round and warm, and the vanilla softens it without making it sugary. It also comes as an extrait, Patchouli Sublime. See Patchouli.

The soft amber: Ambre Cashmere

Ambre Cashmere begins on black pepper, mandarin and lemon. In the heart, orris butter, violet and clove. The base is a proper blanket: vanilla, labdanum, benzoin, tonka bean, patchouli, musk and amber. The orris adds a powdery touch that keeps it from feeling heavy. This is the one you reach for when it starts getting cold. See Ambre Cashmere.

The smoky leather: Baïkal Leather

Baïkal Leather opens on yuzu, black pepper and saffron. The heart brings a leather accord, violet, rose and orris butter. The base blends guaiac wood, sandalwood, smoked pine, vetiver, tonka bean and musk. The yuzu gives the opening some air, the smoked pine and guaiac give the finish some character. For you if you like leather but not raw leather. See Baïkal Leather.

The floral gourmand: Kiss Me

Kiss Me starts on bitter almond, lemon and anise. The heart is very floral, with heliotrope, jasmine, ylang-ylang and orange blossom, warmed by clove and cinnamon. The base sets down vanilla, opoponax and musk. Almond, heliotrope, vanilla: soft, a little powdery and openly cuddly. The name doesn't lie. See Kiss Me.

Sunshine in a bottle: Cap Néroli

Cap Néroli is an eau de toilette that opens on bitter orange petitgrain, orange, mandarin, rosemary and mint. The heart brings neroli, ylang-ylang, jasmine and orange blossom, over a base of oakmoss and musk. Bright, aromatic and perfect for hot days. Save it for spring, you'll thank us. See Cap Néroli.

How to choose your first Nicolaï

• You want the house classic: New York.
• You want something quiet for every day: Fig-Tea.
• You love warm, woody perfumes: Patchouli or Ambre Cashmere.
• You love leather: Baïkal Leather.
• You want softness: Kiss Me.
• You want freshness: Cap Néroli.

A small tip: many of these come in several sizes and sometimes in two concentrations. Test on skin first, let it live for a day, and only then pick your format. On every product page you can see the shops that sell the perfume and set a price alert to hear when it drops.