Niche vetiver perfumes: 8 vetivers, from fresh to dark

Vetiver is a root. And you can tell: woody, earthy, a little smoky, sometimes almost green. It has a gentleman's reputation, but honestly it suits everyone. It gives staying power to a citrus, depth to an iris and character to a woody scent.

Good news for autumn: vetiver feels as right under a trench coat as under a t-shirt. It's a dry note, never sweet, that stays elegant in every season.

Here are eight niche perfumes where vetiver takes the lead, from the freshest to the darkest. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

Just vetiver: Mon Vétiver

Mon Vétiver (2018), by Essential Parfums, is an eau de parfum built around vetiver. Our notes list nothing else. It's the root without make-up, ideal for finding out whether you really like the note. See Mon Vétiver.

Clean vetiver: Ex Vetiver

Ex Vetiver, by Juliette Has a Gun, opens on bergamot and lemon. The heart is vetiver, then the base pairs ambroxan with musk. Citrus and musk make it crisp and bright, like a white shirt. An easy vetiver for the office. See Ex Vetiver.

Citrus vetiver: Original Vetiver

Original Vetiver (2004), by Creed, brings together bergamot, mandarin, ginger, vetiver, sandalwood and musk. Citrus and ginger give it a fresh, lively start, sandalwood and musk soften it. A clean, energetic daytime vetiver. See Original Vetiver.

Classic vetiver: Vetiver Extraordinaire

Vetiver Extraordinaire (2002), by Frédéric Malle, pairs vetiver with bergamot, pink pepper, cedar and sandalwood. Pink pepper adds a peppery spark, the woods extend the root. A straight, woody vetiver for anyone who likes understated scents. See Vetiver Extraordinaire.

Evening vetiver: 601 Nuit Vétiver

601 Nuit Vétiver, by Bon Parfumeur, opens on bergamot, pink berries and grapefruit. The heart mixes pepper, violet leaf and cypriol, then the base brings vetiver, cedar and sandalwood. Grapefruit wakes it up, cypriol and the woods darken it. Fresh at first, woodier at the end. See 601 Nuit Vétiver.

Powdery vetiver: Gris Charnel

Gris Charnel (2019), by BDK Parfums, opens on fig, cardamom and black tea. The heart pairs iris with vetiver, then the base brings sandalwood and tonka bean. Fig and tonka make it soft and wrapping, iris gives it a powdery side. The cosiest one here. See Gris Charnel.

Iris vetiver: Vétiver & Iris

Vétiver & Iris, by 100BON, opens on nutmeg. The heart is black pepper, then the base brings vetiver, orris and olive oil. Spice at the start, roots at the end: a dry, slightly powdery vetiver with an unusual touch of olive oil. See Vétiver & Iris.

Oud vetiver: The Majestic Vetiver

The Majestic Vetiver, by Alexandre.J, opens on basil, cardamom and grapefruit. The heart pairs coriander and liatris, then the base brings oud, vetiver, suede and labdanum. Basil makes it green, oud and labdanum make it dark and deep. The most intense one on the list. See The Majestic Vetiver.

Which one should you pick?

• You want to smell the note on its own: Mon Vétiver.
• You're after a clean everyday vetiver: Ex Vetiver or Original Vetiver.
• You like understated woody scents: Vetiver Extraordinaire.
• You want a fresh vetiver that turns woody: 601 Nuit Vétiver.
• You prefer soft and powdery: Gris Charnel or Vétiver & Iris.
• You want dark and intense: The Majestic Vetiver.

One tip: vetiver really shows itself after an hour, once the citrus has gone. Try it on your skin before you choose, and compare prices on Fragist before you buy.