Niche saffron perfumes: 6 ways to wear the golden spice

Saffron is the spice that shines. Warm, a little leathery, almost golden, it wakes a perfume up without burning it. You often meet it next to oud, but it also gets on well with leather, rose and even cherry.

Here are six niche perfumes where saffron plays a real part, from the woodiest to the most gourmand. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

Woody saffron: Liquides Imaginaires Fortis

Fortis starts strong: saffron, cumin, oud and cypriol, warm and a touch smoky. The heart moves to woods, with guaiac, cedar, amyris and vetiver. The base rounds everything off with amber, patchouli, sandalwood, vanilla and musk.

This is the pick if you want a dry, serious saffron carried by woods rather than sugar. See Fortis.

The saffron and oud duo: Widian Liwa

Liwa comes down to four notes: jasmine, saffron, oud and vetiver. Saffron opens, jasmine gives a rich, sunny floral heart, then oud and vetiver lay down a woody, slightly earthy base.

It's an extrait de parfum, so a high concentration: a few dabs are enough. For you if you want the great saffron-oud classic, with a flower in the middle. See Liwa.

Saffron with a sweet tooth: Montale Arabians Tonka

Arabians Tonka, launched in 2017, opens on saffron and oud, spicy and woody. Rose comes next, dark and full, then tonka bean wraps it all in sugary softness.

Four notes, and a nice balance between the strength of the oud and the roundness of the tonka. For anyone who likes oud but wants it gentler. See Arabians Tonka.

Mystical saffron: The House of Oud Dear Karma

Dear Karma opens on frankincense and absinthe, with rose and neroli. Saffron arrives in the heart, with myrrh, patchouli and a note of sugar. The base mixes leather, ambergris, vetiver and musk.

Here saffron doesn't shout in the opening: it warms the heart of an incense-led, slightly sweet perfume. For you if you like scents with a ritual feel. See Dear Karma.

Leathery saffron: Memo Paris African Leather

African Leather, launched in 2014, opens on saffron, cardamom and bergamot. The heart brings cumin and geranium, warm with a floral touch. The base settles in with leather, patchouli and vetiver.

Saffron and leather get on very well: one brings the sparkle, the other the depth. Spicy, dry and full of character. See African Leather.

Gourmand saffron: Borntostandout Indecent Cherry

Indecent Cherry opens on cherry, almond and saffron. The heart holds sour cherry, strawberry, Bulgarian rose and mimosa. The base is round: vanilla, amber, benzoin, patchouli and musk.

Saffron is there to stop the cherry from turning into syrup. Gourmand, but with character. The most fun one on the list. See Indecent Cherry.

How to choose

• You want dry and woody: Fortis.
• You want the saffron-oud duo: Liwa, or Arabians Tonka if you want it softer.
• You love incense: Dear Karma.
• You love leather: African Leather.
• You have a soft spot for gourmand scents: Indecent Cherry.

One last tip: saffron gets noticed fast. Start light, one or two sprays, and give it an hour to settle before you judge. Then compare the offers on each page to find the right price.