Niche patchouli perfumes: 8 patchoulis, from fresh to dark

Patchouli still carries an old hippie reputation. Forget it. In niche perfumery it's an earthy, woody, slightly camphor-like leaf that can do almost anything: freshen a marine accord, darken a rose, thicken a leather or make a gourmand feel more grown-up.

It's also a very long-lasting base note. It stays on skin long after the citrus and flowers have gone. That's why you find it everywhere, often backstage.

Here it steps forward. These are eight niche perfumes where patchouli plays a key role, from the freshest to the darkest. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

Frosty patchouli: 803 Givre Patchouli

803 Givre Patchouli, by Bon Parfumeur, opens on pink berries, juniper berry and ginger. The heart pairs anise, ylang-ylang and sea spray, then the base brings patchouli, seaweed and ambergris. The marine side and the anise make it a fresh, almost salty patchouli. The lightest one here, a gentle way into the note. See 803 Givre Patchouli.

Just patchouli: Patchouli Mania

Patchouli Mania, by Essential Parfums, is an eau de parfum built around patchouli. Our notes list nothing else: the leaf, centre stage, no detours. Ideal for finding out whether you really like patchouli before moving on to richer takes. See Patchouli Mania.

Fruity patchouli: Persephone's Patchouli

Persephone's Patchouli, by Electimuss, is a parfum that opens on cardamom, plum and pomegranate. The heart mixes patchouli, jasmine and Bulgarian rose, then the base brings honey, sandalwood, cedar and ambergris. Red fruit and rose round off the leaf. A bright, generous patchouli. See Persephone's Patchouli.

Rose patchouli: Portrait of a Lady

Portrait of a Lady (2010), by Frédéric Malle, opens on rose, raspberry, blackcurrant, clove and cinnamon. The heart brings together patchouli, sandalwood and frankincense, then the base pairs musk, amber and benzoin. Here patchouli is the setting for a deep, spicy rose. A niche classic for the evening. See Portrait of a Lady.

Leather patchouli: Pachuli Kozha

Pachuli Kozha, by Nishane, is an extrait de parfum. It opens on hyacinth, ylang-ylang, artemisia and chamomile. The heart pairs patchouli with black pepper, then the base brings leather, honey and frankincense. The flowers at the start surprise you, then leather and honey take over. A chic, concentrated patchouli. See Pachuli Kozha.

Dark patchouli: Patchouli of the Underworld

Patchouli of the Underworld, by Electimuss, lives up to its name. It opens on cistus, black pepper, pink pepper and mandarin. The heart mixes patchouli, leather and carnation, then the base brings labdanum, styrax and castoreum. Resins, leather and pepper: it's the darkest one on the list. See Patchouli of the Underworld.

Spicy patchouli: Patch Absolue

Patch Absolue, by Tauer Perfumes, opens on spices, cinnamon, clove and a boozy accord. Patchouli comes back in the heart and the base, surrounded by creamy white flowers, benzoin, vanilla, amber and sandalwood. Warm, spicy and a little tipsy: a patchouli for winter. See Patch Absolue.

Gourmand patchouli: Al Jazeera Perfumes Patchouli

Patchouli, by Al Jazeera Perfumes, opens on honey and cumin. The heart pairs patchouli, nutmeg and vanilla, then the base brings praline, sandalwood and musk. Praline and vanilla make it a cosy, gourmand patchouli. See Patchouli.

Which one should you pick?

• You want a fresh, light patchouli: 803 Givre Patchouli.
• You want to smell the note on its own: Patchouli Mania.
• You like fruit and flowers: Persephone's Patchouli or Portrait of a Lady.
• You're after a leathery patchouli: Pachuli Kozha or Patchouli of the Underworld.
• You want warmth and spice: Patch Absolue.
• You love gourmands: Al Jazeera Perfumes Patchouli.

One tip: patchouli changes a lot on skin. What you smell in the first minute isn't what you'll smell two hours later. Try before you buy, and compare prices on Fragist, the gaps between shops can be big.