Niche jasmine perfumes: 7 jasmines, from sunny to smoky

Jasmine is everywhere in perfume, often hidden in the heart of a bouquet. Here it takes centre stage. Depending on what surrounds it, it turns fruity, creamy, spicy or smoky.

Here are seven niche perfumes where jasmine really matters, from the simplest to the darkest. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

Jasmine alone: Penhaligon's The Bewitching Yasmine

On our pages, The Bewitching Yasmine comes down to one note: jasmine. No detours, just the flower. The right place to start if you want to know whether you really love jasmine. See The Bewitching Yasmine.

The creamy flower: Vilhelm Parfumerie Fleur Burlesque

Fleur Burlesque opens on gardenia and jasmine. The heart sets down sandalwood, then the base amber. Two white flowers on a soft wood and a warm base: a creamy, round jasmine that's easy to love. See Fleur Burlesque.

The fruity jasmine: Room 1015 Jasmine Freak

Jasmine Freak opens on mango, black pepper, blackcurrant and sweet orange. The heart brings together ylang-ylang, jasmine and tuberose, then the base pairs musk with cashmere wood. Juicy fruit and white flowers: a sunny, gourmand jasmine. See Jasmine Freak.

The sweet jasmine: Juliette Has a Gun Lili Fantasy

Lili Fantasy opens on a bubblegum accord. The heart pairs jasmine with tuberose, then the base sets down an amber accord and ambroxan. A playful, sweet jasmine, for anyone who likes flowers with a touch of candy. See Lili Fantasy.

The bouquet: Mancera Roses Jasmine

Roses Jasmine puts jasmine, French rose, orange blossom and patchouli leaf at its heart. The base brings together cedar, oakmoss and white musk. A generous bouquet where jasmine shares the stage with rose. See Roses Jasmine.

The spiced jasmine: Kajal Yasmina

Yasmina opens on cardamom, saffron and rose. The heart mixes jasmine, iris, leather and whisky, then the base pairs patchouli with tonka bean and vanilla. Spice, leather and vanilla: a rich, warm jasmine for winter. See Yasmina.

The smoky jasmine: Etat Libre d'Orange Jasmin et Cigarette

Jasmin et Cigarette, released in 2006, says it all in its name: our pages list jasmine and tobacco. A white flower resting on a tobacco note, darker and more unusual than the others. See Jasmin et Cigarette.

Jasmine alone or in company

Three perfumes on this list pair jasmine with other white flowers: tuberose in Jasmine Freak and Lili Fantasy, gardenia in Fleur Burlesque. If you love bright white bouquets, start with those. The others play on contrast instead: rose and orange blossom at Mancera, spice and leather at Kajal, tobacco at Etat Libre d'Orange. The darker the partner, the deeper the jasmine feels.

Which one to choose?

• You want pure jasmine: The Bewitching Yasmine.
• You love creamy white flowers: Fleur Burlesque.
• You want fruity or sweet: Jasmine Freak or Lili Fantasy.
• You want a generous bouquet: Roses Jasmine.
• You prefer warm and dark: Yasmina or Jasmin et Cigarette.

A tip: jasmine can seem very strong on a paper strip and much softer on skin. Give it an hour before you decide. And compare prices on Fragist before you buy.