Niche amber perfumes: 8 ambers, from dry to gourmand

Amber in perfume isn't the yellow stone in jewellery. It's a warm, soft, slightly resinous accord, often built with benzoin, vanilla or labdanum. It gives a perfume a wrapping texture, like a wool jumper on the skin. It's the star note as soon as the days get shorter.

And careful: amber and ambergris are not the same thing. Amber is warm and sweet, ambergris is saltier and airier. In this selection, amber is the one in charge.

Here are eight niche perfumes where amber takes the lead, from the driest to the most gourmand. The notes we quote are the ones on our pages, nothing more.

Herbal amber: Ambre Sultan

Ambre Sultan (2000), by Serge Lutens, brings together amber, oregano, coriander, myrtle, bay leaf and benzoin. The herbs make it dry and almost medicinal, the benzoin makes it round and soft. It's a niche amber classic, and the least sweet one here. See Ambre Sultan.

Spicy amber: Ambre du Rêve

Ambre du Rêve, by Chabaud Maison de Parfum, is an extrait de parfum. It opens on cinnamon, cumin and carrot seed. The heart pairs benzoin with patchouli, then the base brings amber, sandalwood, Atlas cedar and musk. Cinnamon and cumin make it warm and a little sharp, the woods keep it structured. See Ambre du Rêve.

Saffron amber: Ambre Safrano

Ambre Safrano, by BDK Parfums, fits in two words: saffron and amber. The saffron brings its spice, the amber wraps it in warmth. Simple on paper, and that's exactly its charm. See Ambre Safrano.

Candied amber: Ambre Premier

Ambre Premier, by Jovoy Paris, opens on spices and candied orange. The heart is rose, then the base brings amber, vanilla, patchouli and musk. Candied orange and vanilla make it softer and brighter than the spicy ambers. A good pick if you want a cosy amber without too much bite. See Ambre Premier.

Fresh amber: Amberful

Amberful, by Mancera, is the liveliest of the lot. It opens on pink pepper, yuzu, bergamot and nutmeg. The heart mixes amberwood, violet and patchouli, then the base pairs amber with moss. The citrus opening makes it easy to wear even in spring or early autumn. See Amberful.

Musky amber: Amber Musk

Amber Musk, by Montale, opens on amber. The heart is white musk, then the base brings ambergris and cedar. White musk makes it clean and soft, like warm skin. It's the quietest amber on the list, perfect for the office. See Amber Musk.

Milky amber: Ambre Latte

Ambre Latte, by Essential Parfums, pairs amber with milk. The milk softens everything, the amber warms it up. A cocoon amber, creamy and comforting, for anyone who loves perfumes that smell like skin and a soft blanket. See Ambre Latte.

Pure amber: Ambre Chromatique

Ambre Chromatique, by Maison Crivelli, is an extrait de parfum built around amber. No detours, no fruit, no flowers in our notes: amber and only amber. For anyone who wants the note at its most concentrated. See Ambre Chromatique.

Which one should you pick?

• You like dry, herbal ambers: Ambre Sultan.
• You want warm spices: Ambre du Rêve or Ambre Safrano.
• You're after a soft, bright amber: Ambre Premier or Amberful.
• You want a quiet amber for every day: Amber Musk.
• You love cocoon perfumes: Ambre Latte.
• You want the most intense amber: Ambre Chromatique or Ambre du Rêve, both extraits.

One tip: amber shows itself on skin, not on a paper strip. Try it on your wrist and wait an hour before you decide. And compare prices on Fragist before you buy, the gaps between shops can be big.